Pit stop in Mödling

Mr Boulderkeskus did what most climbers can only dream of. He bought a campervan, gave up his apartment and drove away from Finland. Working remotely, climbing daily, is surely living the dream of many. Rest days are perfect for working, and when the weather gets shitty it's time to move on to the next crag.

Jarmo has been on the road since the beginning of May, and it will be interesting to see how this "working on the road"-project goes, as a long-term solution. So far the only problem seems to be his unlimited Internet connection, which turned out to be not-so-unlimited. You can find more specs about the campervan and follow Jarmo's trip around Europe here.

Last Saturday, the California arrived to Mödling and it was time for Jarmo and Jussi to get a touch of Austrian limestone.

 The first place to visit was obviously Peilstein

 Jarmo and Jussi excited about the day's adventure

 Jarmo belaying on top of the second pitch of Weg der Erstersteigen 3+

 Anu on Skone-Variante 5-. It's a nice variation to Weg der Erstersteigen on a pocketed wall.

 A happy man on the top of Cimone

 BOOOM!

 Anu & Direkte Vegatarierkante 5+, Cimone on the background

 This is a super nice and exposed route; the last bit was even a bit overhanging

 Any day in Peilstein is a good day

Jarmo seems to agree

 Jussi & In der Hölle ist der Teufel los 7a

 Anu on Kleine Fee vom Praterstern 6b, Jussi & Jarmo on Tanz der kleinen Feen 6a

 Next day at Thalhofergrat. I had a good day, I did both Zen 8a and Zen light 7a+. I was pretty happy as Zen is probably the hardest sport route I've done and this was my third climbing day in a row.

 Jussi & Gruselkabinett 6a+

 Jarmo & Osterei 6c+ 

 After a day of sport climbing it was time for longer routes again. This is Draschgrat UIAA 5+, 200 m / 7 pitches at Hohe Wand. It is super nice route and follows a cool buttress on solid rock. 

 "It's just like cross country skiing but more fun"

 I have climbed the route a few times before, but this was the first time I actually pitched every pitch. A couple of times the belay was already occupied but improvising a new anchor on this route is very easy to do. All bolts are glued-in bolts and you can also put in some trad gear if needed.

 The last pitch of Draschgrat

Few more moves and then it's time to find some Weizenbier (there are restaurants at the top of Hohe Wand)

 Next day at Arnstein Höhle.

 Jussi & Mutzsteig 5, very nice climbing for the grade

 Jarmo onsighting Mojito 7a

 Jussi onsighting Horizontaler kraftakt 6c+, a juggy route at the roof of the cave

 "A head lamp would have been nice"

 Jarmo redpointing Rock ballet 7c/7c+."Für Hallenfreunde", as the guidebook says. 

 Efeugrat. It's about 1 km from our apartment.

 Jussi about the get spanked by Fingerbeisser 7a/7a+

 Jussi working on Sondereinsatz 8a+. It's raining, but the route was steep enough to stay dry.

 Art photo of the day: A Fire salamander

Btw. I'm arranging climbing courses again. If you are interested in for example multipitch course in Peilstein or Hohe Wand, send me an e-mail or check out my courses at korosuo.com

Wo sind die Klippen?

In Austria we have faced new kinds of problems. Those who have been to Frankenjura know what I’m talking about. Too many new crags around, it’s not obvious where to go for climbing. And if you find a nice crag, should you stay there or search for more? Yes, first world problems.

So far we have checked out dozens of crags, but most of them seem to be somewhat abandoned. It’s nice to be alone at the crag, but I have a feeling we haven’t found the best crags yet. Sometimes we have climbed some world class limestone, and other times found just a pile of loose shit with homemade bolts.

Adlitzgräben. 1 minute approach.

 Me looking at King size 8 (7a). Steep and juggy. Very similar to Ton sai roof.

Falkensteinhöhle at Adlitzgräben. Erfolg ist trainierbar reclimbed 11 (9a) on the left side.

Adlitzgräben has 9 sectors. Most of the routes are between 7a-8b. This is a very good place by any standard. For some reason we have been here only once.

 Schattenreich

 Looks nice but is unfortunately quite loose. 

 Maitre vauban und der basilisk 11 (9a). A 33-meter route which overhangs 12 meters. 

Hardest routes seem to be quite nice here. Anyway, this place offers very little for mid-level climbers like us. I don’t think we are coming back.

 View from Schattenreich.

 Schatzinsel

 Rock quality is very good and it’s quite different from other areas. A lot of slopy pockets.

 A tufa!

Scheiblingkirchner wandl. This is one of my favorite places. It is just a small sector and a couple of routes. I have been here only once, but everything I’ve climbed here has been super good. Steep and juggy and not polished at all. Unfortunately the hardest route is 7c.

Niemandsland. This is the place to go when it’s hot in the summer.

 A local climber on Big sleep 9 (7c+)

Arnsteinhöhle. We have been here a few times and here I’ve climbed my hardest piece of Austrian limestone so far, Das dritte auge kundalini 9/9+ (7c/7c+)

 Energieembargo 9- (7b+). Dynamic belaying is a big no-no on this route. Try to find a fat belayer with a grigri.

 Anu and her shiny 29”. Approaches just became a bit more fun. 

 Thalhofergrat. Ok, this seems to be the place where people climb. 

15 sectors and hundreds of routes up to 8c+. It’s near to us and the approach is 1 minute to the closest sector. It is a pretty obvious choice for "after work"-climbing.

We just got yet another guidebook. 2000 routes only at Höllenthal area. This doesn’t really help with the problem.